This isn't exactly a "Ruthless Cosmopolitan" column, but it fits into the genre -- it's my latest column for The New Leader, about my pilgrimage to a centuries-old shrine in Umbria last spring, and some of the history of the area around it along the Tiber River between Todi and Orvieto.
I've posted the story as a pdf -- the New Leader does not have an interactive web site, alas....
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